The Amalfi Coast has been part of the European “Grand Tour” since the 19th century and with good reason. The spectacular coastal scenery of dramatic limestone cliffs contrasts against an impossibly- turquoise blue sea. Clinging hillside towns, groves of fragrant lemons, silvery olives and vineyards are quintessentially Mediterranean. The attraction is indeed ancient, dating to the Greeks who imagined the rocky coastline to be the home of the Sirens of Homer’s Odyssey, and later wealthy Romans who chose the area as a site to construct their summer villas. No other locale exhibits true Mediterranean flair like the Island of Capri.
The Island of Capri
From Naples, Italy to the Port of Marina Grande on the Island of Capri is a 45-minute high- speed hydofoil trip that is spectacular in itself, with Mt. Vesuvius to the east and the islands of Ischia and Procida to the west — and then a climatic almost vertical funicular climb from the water's edge to the Capri center. And there you stand, blinking in the Mediterranean sun like wide- eyed child who first discovers his independence -- with so much to discover.
The Port of Marina Grande
As soon as you set foot on the island of Capri you can't help but notice the sweet scent of lemons, while being embraced by
the Mediterranean warmth and rugged coast that hugs the Port of Marina Grande home to yachts and exquisite sailboats from all over the world. If ancient is what you seek, check out Capri's Point Vivara to the west, where you can still see the ruins of it's ancient Roman port, while offering direct access to the Imperial Villa of Palazzo a Mare.
Capri "la piazzetta"
The "heart" of Capri is the Piazza Umberto I a.k.a. "The Piazzetta" (little square), is irrefutably Capri's best place to see and be seen. From couples posing for pictures against a backdrop of jagged limestone cliffs to couples sipping Campari- and-soda, couples are everywhere (the island's reputation as a romantic getaway is well deserved). Just a few steps away is a small kiosk with bunches of fresh lemons hanging from its open windows and a hand- lettered wooden sign that says granita di limone. The sign, more than the couples or anything else, announces your arrival. In this jet-set capital of
glamour, style, and romance, lemons are the real stars.
That's because lemons are the symbol of Capri. They appear on street signs, park benches, door plaques, and hotel insignias. They are painted on the ceramic plates and pitchers — bright yellow against a sea-blue background — that are sold from open air storefronts wedged between high-end boutiques. They scent the soaps, perfumes, and colognes. They flavor
Limon Cello (the island's signature lemon liqueur), tortes, tarts, cakes, cookies, and
sorbetto.
Surrounding the piazza is the medieval quarter. World reknown for its history and ambience, it offers an intricate network of small, winding cobblestone streets tightly lined with shop after shop of Europe's finest retailers, sidewalk cafes, lemon products and the famous Carthusia, Profumi di Capri perfume factory -- home of Capri's signature Fiori Di Capri cologne.
The Square of the Funicolar: Pre-Roman Walls
The Square of the Funicolar is one of the few remaining oldest structures in the town of Capri where old and new construction intertwine. Dated by various scholars to 1000 BC (by Maiuri), little is actually known about these walls. The walls are connected to the Belltower and to the town's ancient gate, which is adorned with arches, ogival cross-vaults and dig fragments.
The Emperor Tiberius'
Villa Jovis
The Villa Jovis walk takes you on a three mile gradual ascent through Capri’s pedestrian streets to the Emperor Tiberius’ Villa Jovis on Capri’s easternmost peak. First constructed in the Augustan period (27 A.D.) and modified in the Tiberian Age, the villa was occupied until the second century A.D. At the highest point, the medieval chapel of Santa Maria del Soccorso commands an expansive view of the entire island, the Bay of Naples and the Sorrentine Peninsula’s tip, the Punta della
Campanella.
The bold Arco Naturale (Natural Arch) is what remains after centuries of erosion pierced the edge of the mountain. After the uplifting of the island during the paleolithic era, the grotto was freed from the erosive action of the waves, while the wind and the rain transformed its surface leaving what remains of the Arco Naturale today.
On returning from the Arco Naturale, a flight of steps descending to the valley below leads to the Matermania Grotto, an impressive natural cavern developed during Roman times. Today little remains of the wall in Arsenal Grotto beneath the Garden of Augustus, that was originally lined with mosaic "tesserae" made of glass paste and decorated with multi- colored plaster, shells and marine valves.
Beyond the Grotto, follow an easy path winding along the cliff bordering the sea lands to Villa Malaparte, (or "Casa come me"), built at Punta Massullo. The path continues up to Tragara Belvedere, from where Capri center can then be reached by walking along the perimeter road (Total return travel time: 1 hour 30 minutes.)
When To Go:
Capri is hot in the summer. It can be cold and rainy in winter. The other seasons (October- November and March-April) offer the best compromise between bad weather and big crowds. Average temperatures range from 55 degrees Fahrenheit in January to 84 degrees Fahrenheit in August. Avoid August, when all of Italy goes on vacation.
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