-By Dave Mead, MT Automotive Editor -


Heater Core Problems

Dave,

I have a 1990 Dodge Grand Voyager with a 3.3 liter engine. I just installed a new radiator, now I’m getting film on the inside of the windshield when the defroster is on. Can you tell me where heater core is located on this vehicle?

Thanks!
J. R. Clemand
Location unknown

Hi, You’re correct to check the heater core, as it is probably leaking. Another way to tell a heater core is bad is if you smell a sickly sweet odor coming from the heater ducts. That is anti-freeze leaking from the core into the heater box.

As to the location, it is probably behind the dashboard, unfortunately. Many modern car designers have put the core behind the dash. Sometimes, i believe the engineers who design these things should be forced to also work on them so they can see what nightmares their creations are to fix sometimes. That means you may have to tear the entire dash out of the car. Are you game? If not, take it to someone like me who does it for a living and can do it in a few hours, when it would take an untrained person a few months, and probably still not have it correct.

Dave

Hard-Starting Chevy S-10

Dave,

I have a 1994 Chevy S-10 Blazer with a 4.3-liter Vortec engine. The problem I have is it won’t start unless I use starting fluid. Once it starts it runs fine. I have 40 pounds of fuel pressure.

Branden
Location unknown

Hello Branden!

The problem is probably your fuel pressure regulator. You say you have 40 pounds of pressure. The information available at www.alldata.com says that engine should have a pressure of 62 to 90 kPa, which translates to 9 t 13 PSI. Your pressure is too high, so therefore, it sounds like a bad regulator. Check it out and let me know if we're correct. 

Thanks for writing!

Dave

Winterize a Car?

Dear Dave:

What can I do to make sure my car is ready for winter myself, without spending a lot of money?

George M,
Plymouth Township.

George, there are plenty of things that you can do in only a few minutes that will get your vehicle ready for winter, and possibly save you in gas money too. Be sure first that your tires have the right amount of air. Check them cold, and fill them according to the specifications in your owner’s manual, or on the sticker on the inside of your driver side front door.

Keeping your tires inflated. The Car Care Council says tires under-inflated by every one pound can drop your gas mileage by about a half-percent. Check your tires often in winter too as pressure can drop about a pound for each 10 degree drop in temperature.

Next, check your wiper blades. If they haven’t been replaced in a while, or they streak or smear, replace them. Many auto parts stories will do this for free if you buy them there and that saves most people a lot of headaches figuring out how to put the suckers on. Check all your lights and turn signals to be sure they’ re working properly. You may have brake lights that don’t work and not even know it, since you don’t normally drive your car going backwards!

Have your antifreeze strength checked. If you haven’t changed it in at least two to three years, consider having a flush and fill. Antifreeze will actually take on an electrical charge and over time will start corroding engines that have both aluminum and steel parts from the inside out.

Clean your battery’s poles with a solution of baking soda and water and a brush, but don’t get any of that white powder on your clothes, it’s actually acid. Apply some dielectric grease to stop corrosion and so your vehicle’s electrical system can charge itself.

Check all the other fluids under the hood, and inspect the air cleaner by popping the clips on the filter box. Hold the filter up to the light and if you cant’ see through it or it has more than, say, 30,000 miles on it, it’s time to renew. A bad filter can drastically cut gas mileage, and these days, who wants to give the oil companies more than we have to? Change your oil frequently. Many newer cars say they can go 4,000 to 5,000 or more miles between changes, but smaller, four-cylinder engines work a lot harder than V-6s or V-8s, so I’d stick with changing every 3,000 to 3,500 miles.

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